Construction Manual

The following is the type of construction manual you will receive with your home. The manual you receive will be customized for your home. This is a sample to let you know what to expect and what is required by you and your contractor with regard to the construction of your new home. Please contact us if you have any questions.

1.0.1 Island Gal Homes & Cottages would like to take this opportunity to welcome you to the growing number of people who have selected an Island Gal home, the best panelized home on the market! We are certain you will be pleased with every aspect of our product. We have combined top quality materials, fine craftsmanship, and years of experience in housing construction to provide a quality home for our customers.

1.0.2 This manual has been prepared to aid in the actual construction of our cottages. We have made a serious attempt to avoid the use of technical terms and complicated professional concepts. Only where absolutely necessary have we used specialized trade jargon. Hopefully, this will provide you with a clear understanding of this manual. You and your builder should carefully review the details of construction covered here. There are several areas where the construction of our units differs from purely conventional construction methods. These differences affect both the structural integrity and the safety of the construction crews involved.

THIS MANUAL IS INTENDED TO HELP WITH THE ERECTION OF THE ISLAND GAL HOME. IT IS NOT INTENDED TO BE A STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTION MANUAL FOR THE DO IT YOURSELFER. ERECTION OF THIS PACKAGE REQUIRES AN UNDERSTANDING OF CONSTRUCTION METHODS AND PRINCIPLES. WE SUGGEST YOU READ THE COMPLETE MANUAL BEFORE YOUR HOME ARRIVES AND KEEP IT HANDY DURING CONSTRUCTION.

1.0.3 The blueprints provided by Island Gal Homes & Cottages, especially in regards to the foundation, are not site specific. It is difficult to provide grade specifications or site specific elevations and details. Such services should be performed by local architects/engineers and surveyors who are familiar with and are able to make precise measurements at your job site. Site specific foundations details vary, so check with your local building code agency for local requirements.

1.0.4 Should you have any questions concerning the construction of your Island Gal Home, do not hesitate to contact our Customer Service Department at (305)-567-1122 or in the Bahamas at (242)-364-5111.

All Island Gal Homes & Cottages are 32” in depth and range from 30’ to 48’ in length. In some instances the cottages are referred by name instead of size. Here is a listing of the sizes and names together for your information: Cabin model is 26’ in depth and 28’ long.

COTTAGES

Beach Cottage 32’ x 42’ Sound Cottage 32’ x 36’

Island Cottage 32’ x 30’ Cabin I Cottage 24’ x 26’

da Bungalow 26’ x 28’

HOMES

Grand Bahamas 56’ diameter – 2500 sqft.

Eleuthra 52’ diameter – 2000 sqft.

Abaco 47’ diameter – 1600 sqft.

Rum Cay 44’ diameter – 1500 sqft.

Andros 39’ diameter – 1200 sqft.

Exuma 37’ diameter – 1000 sqft.

Inagua 34’ diameter – 900 sqft.

Mayaguana 32’ diameter - 800 sqft.

Bimini 26’ diameter - 500 sqft.

1.1.1 The erection of any one of our panelized homes will require at least 6 healthy people. This should include a lead carpenter and two experienced carpenter helpers. Each person should be capable of easily lifting 75 lbs. and carrying this weight whatever distance the job site requires.

The following materials should be on the job site the day the truck arrives:

o When erecting the shell, some customers elect to use a crane. Each customer has to make this decision for themselves, weighing the costs against the advantages.

(While cranes are expensive, the time and effort saved in setting upper level walls and large trusses are considerable. The majority of Island Gal homes are erected without cranes.)

1.2.1 Some parts of an Island Gal home are structural and cannot be compromised in any way. Cutting a roof truss or floor truss is not permitted without special considerations. Some other parts, like sub fascia, will be cut on site to ensure a perfect fit. Here is a list of Island Gal parts that can be modified and ones that cannot.

Ribbon Boards – 2x4 at either end of Web-Tec floor trusses, will need to be cut to fit.

Roof Sheathing – All roof sheathing is shipped in 4’ x 8’ sheets. A layout for the roof sheathing is included in the Construction blueprints. As you will see the joints of the roof sheathing is staggered therefore the first or last piece of each row will need to be cut.

Soffits – Island Gal only supplies soffit if the siding package is ordered from Island Gal. Wood soffits are precut in our plant, but if needed, a small amount can be trimmed in the field to ensure correct fit. Vinyl soffits are cut in the field.

Trim Items – Fascias, Soffits, Ledgers, etc – Again, these are only provided if the siding package is ordered. All of these pieces are shipped in standard lumber lengths and need to be cut in the field to ensure correct fit.

Deck Materials – The deck beams are prebuilt to pocket into the floor truss. The rest of the material is dimensional lumber and field cut and installed.

Floor Sheathing – All floor sheathing is shipped in 4’ x 8’ sheets. A layout for the floor sheathing is included in the Construction blueprints. As you will see the joints of the floor sheathing is staggered, therefore the first or last piece on each row will need to be cut.

Wall Panels – The double 2x10 header over the windows and doors cannot be modified. Rough openings can be modified s long as the header is correctly supported. See note on following page regarding high-wing/seismic areas and wall panel modification.

Care should be exercised when modifying the preceding items. Small modifications are acceptable in one or two places, but if modifications are large or excessive, bigger problems may be present. If problems occur, stop and measure (including the overall size and shape of the components erected), and if the problem can’t be resolved, call Island Gal before you cut anything.

Roof Trusses – The roof trusses are a pre-engineered building component that cannot be cut. It will void the warranty. (A small amount may be trimmed off of each truss tail to ensure a straight fascia).

Web-Tec Floor Trusses – These cannot be modified without Island Gal’s approval. Again, it will void the warranty.

If you are constructing a home in a high wind and/or seismic area, do not alter or rearrange the placement of wall panels from your final floor plan. Also, do not add doors or windows (or add openings or modify existing openings) in/to the wall panels. It could compromise the high wind or seismic design.

ANY MODIFICATIONS TO THE ABOVE THREE ITEMS WILL VOID THE ISLAND GAL WARRANTY.

1. Stair opening – this can be done according to the Island Gal approved “field fix” engineered stamp drawings.

2. Opening to Below Area – Open to below should be limited to the areas as specified in the drawings. Any alterations to this should be approved by Island Gal’s engineering department.

2.0.1 One of the most important steps in building your Island Gal home is the delivery. It is very important that you (the homeowner) make sure that you have safe access provided to your building site. If you do not have appropriate access to your site, your home may need to be off-loaded at another location. Your home will arrive on an 18-wheel tractor trailer. The trailer is a box (enclosed) trailer. Depending on the size and various options that you choose, more than one trailer may be required. (Please remember that if your site is not accessible by the delivery truck, you will have to absorb the storage fees or additional costs incurred). In some cases, it may be possible for the package to be delivered on smaller trucks. Contact Customer Service regarding this.

Below are listed some specifications to take into consideration to determine whether or not you have appropriate site access:

2.0.5 The driver who delivers the load is not an Island Gal employee and will not assist in unloading the truck. You must have the personnel to unload and properly stack the material as well as enough clear space to stack the material out of the way of building construction. Normally, this will require a clear area 1 ½ - 2 times the size of your house.

2.0.6 As noted on your contract, you have 5 days after delivery to make a claim for damages or shortages and 10 days to make a claim for a manufacturing error. Use extreme caution in unloading your home. Damages resulting from unloading by your crew are not covered by Island Gal Homes or the freight carrier. Appendix A is an example of a standard shipping list (shipper). As you will note, a column has been provided for you to check the required quantities against the actual number delivered. Simply note any observed differences in this column and send back.

2.0.7 As stated earlier, you must have enough manpower, storage space, and stacking material to adequately move and protect your package. The use of an all-terrain forklift will greatly ease and speed up the unloading operation. Unloading the package by hand is a time consuming process. Do not plan to get a significant amount of building done on the unloading day. If you wish you may also use cranes or boom trucks. Regardless of the equipment used, exercise care to not damage your material.

THIS SHIPPER MUST BE MARKED AND RETURNED TO ISLAND GAL HOMES WITHIN THE TIME SPECIFIED. ISLAND GAL CANNOT RECOGNIZE ANY CLAIM FOR SHORTAGE OR DAMAGE UNLESS YOUR COMPLETED SHIPPING PAPERS ARE IN OUR FILES.

IF WINDOWS ARE PREINSTALLED, DO NOT LAY WALL PANELS FLAT SINCE THIS PLACES UNDUE STRESS ON THE WINDOWS.

2.0.8 We have found that the best method of transport for the package is an enclosed truck. While it slightly increases the amount of time needed to unload, the material arrives in better condition.

2.1.1 The truck is loaded to best protect the components enclosed. This will not be in the exact order of the erection sequence. When unloading the truck, stack the material that will be used first and the heaviest items closest to the home foundation. Be careful to leave ample working space on the foundation and around it. As the wall panels come off, stack them on their sides or tops. Keep them off the ground and cover them if they are not going to be erected immediately.

2.1.2 All of the trim material (if applicable) should be kept in a dry, protected space. If such storage is not available, cover it extremely well. Weather damage may make these materials unusable.

CAUTION: THE BUILDER, BUILDING CONTRACTOR, LICENSED CONTRACTOR, ERECTOR OR ERECTION CONTRACTOR IS ADVISED TO OBTAIN AND READ THE ENTIRE BOOKLET HIB-91 COMMENTARY AND RECOMMENDATION FOR HANDLING, INSTALLING AND BRACING METAL PLATE CONNECTED TRUSSES (A COPY OF HIB-91 IS INCLUDED IN YOUR SHIPPING PACKAGE.)

2.1.3 Unless using a crane, do not attempt to lift the trusses as a bundle. They are deceptively heavy and damage may occur.

2.1.4 Do not discard or use for some purpose other than intended any material which you may fail to recognize.

2.1.5 Once the truck has been unloaded and you have checked the shipper against the material delivered, you are ready to start assembly of the package.

2.1.6 If you have ordered a floor system, it will be erected first, followed by the wall panels and finally the roof system.

NOTE: IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL BUILDING OFFICIALS, HEALTH DEPARTMENT, ETC., FOR PERCOLATION ACCEPTANCE, ZONING APPROVAL AND BUILDING PERMIT BEFORE YOU ACTUALLY BREAK GROUND. IF YOU ARE UNFAMILIAR WITH THIS PROCEDURE AND YOU ARE ACTING AS YOUR OWN CONTRACTOR, YOUR LOCAL BUILDING OFFICALS ARE USUALLY MORE THAN HAPPY TO AID YOU IN THE PROPER STEPS. ONCE YOU ARE CERTAIN THAT LOCAL CODES HAVE BEEN MET, YOU ARE READY TO BEGIN.

3.1.1 Various types of building foundations may be used. The Island Gal structure allows you to use any of the conventional foundations normal for your area. These include slabs, crawlspaces, basements, sonotubes, piers and some combinations of each.

3.1.2 Island Gal has provided detailed blueprints for your use, outlining the general construction of the foundation you have chosen. If you or your contractor needs technical assistance, call us at (305) 567-1122.

3.1.3 Understand that there may be local code requirements not covered in the blueprints. It is your responsibility to ensure conformance to local ordinances and codes.

3.1.4 Examine and review the plans prior to construction with an experienced contractor in your area. Your will find the blueprints which we provide are more than sufficient to meet your needs. They are structurally sound, easy to understand, and use techniques familiar to most qualified contractors.

3.1.5 Examine the following construction process. These methods and details will be useful in all the various types of foundations.

NOTE: FOUNDATION DETAILS SHOWN ON THE DRAWINGS ARE FOR ILLUSTRATION PURPOSES ONLY AND ARE NOT A PART OF THE APPROVED STRUCTURAL DRAWINGS. THE PURPOSE OF THESE FOUNDATION DETAILS IS TO ILLUSTRATE TYPICAL FOOTING AND FOUNDATION DESIGNS AND TO SPECIFY MINIMUM REQUIRED SUPPORT LOCATIONS AND SIZES. THE ACTUAL FOUNDATION DESIGN FOR THE BULIDING IS THE SOLE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE BUILDER AND SHOULD BE DESIGNED BY A LOCAL BUILDING DESIGN PROFESSIONAL CONSIDERING THE ACTUAL SOIL BEARING CAPACITY AND OTHER SITE CONDITIONS.

3.2.2 From the general construction blueprints, read what the distance should be from corner to corner. Don’t forget that decks will extend beyond this perimeter. (10’ decks by 10’, 8’ decks by 8’, etc). In order to insure the house is square you may do so by pulling a diagonal measurement and making sure they are exactly equal in distance. In other words, A and B should be equal.

A B

3.2.3 You should also drive additional stakes 2’ outside the actual dimension to allow for the digging of the footers without knocking over the stakes. Many client/builders like having a local surveyor set the corners for them to ensure its accuracy. This can be especially important where sloped terrain make it more difficult to stake out accurately.

3.2.4 Decide where one corner of the house should be located by considering the view, deck locations, set backs, code issues or the desired front entry door location. The front entry door usually makes an excellent starting point. If a walk-out or partially in-ground basement is being dug, more than 2’ may be needed to allow adequate workspace around the foundation.

3.2.5 After you have located all the corners, recheck the distance between each pair of corners. Now you need to locate and mark the locations for the pier footings for the load bearing center wall. This will usually be two to three pier footings depending on the model size ordered. Now you are ready to dig the footings. Make sure that the footings are the proper depth and width for your site. Island Gal will provide you with the load or weights the footing must hold on request. Please call your customer service design consultant.

3.3.1 In most cases, a typical foundation will consist of a gravel base, a layer of polyethylene, rebar, and a wire mesh, all of which are set in place and anchored. Some concrete suppliers offer a residential fiber additive that can replace the wire mesh. Consult your local building department or builder to establish the best method for your area.

NOTE: RECHECK ALL SLAB MEASUREMENTS JUST BEFORE YOU POUR TO ENSURE THAT NO FORMS HAVE MOVED. MAKE ANY NECESSARY ADJUSTMENTS NOW, BEFORE YOU POUR.

3.3.2 Pour and finish the slab. The 4” to 6” along the perimeter of the slab should be made as level and smooth as possible. Any uneven portion in this area will require the use of shims when setting your wall panels. The slab should be allowed to cure for the amount of time appropriate for the season and weather in your area. The form boards should be removed and the edges of the slab scraped and swept free of excess concrete and dirt before your package arrives. Measure the slab to be sure it matches the measurements in the construction generals. Always check the measurements from corner to corner and diagonally to ensure the squareness. As a general rule, a slightly smaller slab requires less correction than an oversize one, but both are problems to be avoided. Serious deviations, as in all construction, will increase construction cost and time.

Follow the steps in 3.2.0 “Staking the house out” to determine the correct location of the home on the building site. The perimeter laid out in those steps corresponds to the outside edge of the basement or crawlspace wall. The footings for the basement/crawlspace walls are detailed on the foundation page of your blueprints.

3.4.1 Every house shipped for construction on crawlspace, basement, or piers must have center support posts/piers for the girder which in turn supports the main floor system above. To ensure these center posts/piers are the correct height, pull a string across the top of the foundation wall, including the pressure treated top plate from one side to the other. The taut string should be 16” above the top of the center support posts/piers.

NOTE: CHECK YOUR CONSTRUCTION DRAWINGS TO VERIFY THIS DIMENSION. IT MAY VARY DUE TO THE CUSTOMIZATION OF YOUR PROJECT.

3.4.2 The walls of the basement or crawlspace may be constructed using the conventional building practices in your area. In basement construction, rebar or other suitable structural steel should be used. The size and amount of steel used is based upon local building code and how much dirt (backfill) is being placed against the foundation wall. Consult with your local builder or building department for these requirements.

NOTE: THE ACTUAL SIZE FOR EACH FOOTING MUST BE ESTABLISHED BY A LOCAL ENGINEER OR COUNTY/CITY BUILDING DEPARTMENT.

3.4.3 We recommend a pressure treated sill plate be applied to the top of all basement walls and anchored with J-bolts extending high enough to reach through the sill plate and allow the anchoring nuts to be attached.

3.4.4 If your area is subject to termite problems, a termite shield should be placed on top of the foundation wall. If the foundation is to enclose a heated basement, don’t forget to seal and weather-strip.

3.4.5 When building the basement/crawlspace foundation, the proper damp proofing or waterproofing as well as foundation drains will need to be installed. Contact your local building department for local codes or consult with your builder.

3.5.1 On beachfront property, in flood plain areas, or on heavily sloped property, the best foundation support is often a pier or sonotube system. Island Gal homes, with the open web floor truss system, is easily adaptable to these types of foundations. If you have decided to use them, first read and follow the section “3.2.0 Staking out the house” to determine the house locations and orientation. The general details for this type construction can be found on the footing layout page of your construction generals.

3.5.2 In the event pilings are used, piling size requirements may cause the piling corners to block the wall siding overhang. If so the support pilings can be moved in, up to six inches. Remember that the exterior walls of the Island Gal are load bearing. Any overhang greater than six inches will require additional support. If the situation requires the foundation support set bet back further (a process called cantilevering) we recommend that you get engineering assistance before proceeding.

3.5.3 Pilings should be located as shown in the general construction blueprints.

3.5.4 Support Beams (Girder Beams) should be securely attached to the support pilings. Island Gal suggests two options of attaching support/girder beams to pilings:

NOTE: BE SUE TO FOLLOW LOCAL BUILDING CODES FOR YOUR AREA, BUT NEVER USE A LESS SUBSTANTIAL SYSTEM THAN THE ONES DETAILED IN THE BLUEPRINTS.

NOTE: THE PILING CONNECTION (WHETHER IT BOLTS OR ATTACHES WITH THE BRACKETS) IS THE BUILDER OR HOMEOWNER’S RESPONSIBILITY. THEY ARE NOT PART OF THE PACKAGE.

3.6.1 For basements: Install center support columns and fasten with expansion bolts into the slab of the basement. Then install the girder (as specified in the plans). Please note that the top of the girder should be at the same height as the top of the pressure treated sill plate so the floor trusses will be level.

Special Note: All girder material and pressure treated sill plates are supplied by the owner and are not part of the Island Gal package unless otherwise specified in your contract.

3.6.2 For Crawlspace: Piers will be built on top of the footings as indicated on the plans to a height that allows for the pressure treated sill plate and girder to be equal to the height of the pressure treated sill plate on the outer perimeter walls. Whether building these piers out of concrete or concrete block, special attention must be given to ensure the height is calculated correctly to ensure that the floor system installs level. If these dimensions are off, shimming will be required to level the floor.

3.6.3 You should now be ready to accept delivery of your home package. All materials and labor necessary to reach this stage of construction are supplied by the homeowner.

4.1.1 Section 4.0.0 covers Island Gal’s floor systems. If your home is a one level to be constructed on a slab, you can skip this section and move on to section “5.0.0 WALLS”.

Before starting the erection of any floor system, it is recommended you check the location of your center girder as follows: Using a tape measure across the foundation in three different locations from front to back for the cap version and right to left for the chalet version. Confirm that the floor trusses will rest onto the girder.

4.2.1 The trusses are banded during shipment. Use caution when cutting banding, unloading and stacking any truss. When unloading, be sure to try to stage these closest to the foundation since they will be used first.

4.2.2 Island Gal’s Engineered wooden floor truss system uses an open web design with metal plates.

4.2.3 The Engineered truss is designed to allow for minor trimming to assure a proper fit. This cutting should be done on the inside end ONLY. Having to cut a large amount could mean a larger problem exists. STOP!! Call Island Gal before cutting.

4.2.4 The Engineered system uses only one truss design. The floor trusses in this system have an inside and outside, top and bottom. All Engineered floor trusses have a notch located at the outer end at the top and bottom to accept a 2”x4” ribbon board that will be applied as the floor system is installed.

4.2.5 The Engineered floor trusses are placed 24” on center. Make sure your first trusses are even with the plain of your outside wall and marking on the pressure treated sill plate and girder, where the center of the truss will be located. Both ends of the main level floor will be 2 each Engineered trusses with 2”x6”x16” filler blocks between (refer to construction drawings and details), this will provide support for the wall system. After laying out all truss locations, you may now begin setting the trusses in place. Fasten the floor trusses to the sill plate using a 16d nail. (NOTE: All floor trusses will need to have a Simpson H2.5 framing anchor attached from the sill plate to the bottom cord.)

4.2.6 After the trusses are set and checked, you then need to install the steel X bracing. On all models there are two braces creating one X at the mid-span of the 16’ at the 8’ point. Be sure to not install the metal bracing where it obstructs the boxing for the haul run. The metal bracing is nailed to the top of one truss and to the bottom of the next, and so on. The location of the row of X bracing is not crucial. Place them where they fit best. (At this point, nail the tops only! The bottoms will be nailed after the sub floor sheathing has been installed.)

4.2.7 All the ¾” tongue and groove sheathing is shipped in 4’ x 8’ sheets. Follow the floor sheathing layout provided in the construction blueprints. The only cutting required is the last piece on one end and it should be a half piece.

4.2.8 All hardware and fasteners are provided to assemble the floor system from Island Gal. Included are nails, steel plates, bolts nut, adhesives, framing anchors, steel X bracing (NOTE: adhesives are shipped in 30 oz. tubes. Be sure you have the appropriate dispenser available.)

4.2.9 FLOOR SHEATHING: First check the fit, remove the sheathing and apply sub-floor adhesives using a ½” bead. Apply to the top cord of the Web-Tec truss. (NOTE: only apply what you can use in 20 minutes.) Cover the adhesive with the pre-fitted sheet, align and tack all four corners. Continue towards the other directions repeating these same steps until the entire row is complete. The last piece requires a cut sheet. Before cutting this piece, measure for exact fit. The next row starts with a full sheet where you ended with the cut sheet and work back down to your first row beginning point.

Continue this staggered seam application of the sheathing properly inserting into the groove side. Continue this process until all rows are complete. Next, complete nailing the sheathing down before the adhesive sets fully. Use sub-floor nails supplied with your package and nailing pattern of 4” on the edges, and 6” in the field. This also may be a good time to install the framing anchors supplied with the package. Use one per truss. Apply to bottom cord and down the face of your pressure treated sill plate. Fill all the holes with 8d nails supplied, and clinch the ends that come through. This will tie the truss down to the sill plate. In a stand-up basement or multi-story unit, you may want to wait until all the sheathing is on before installing the framing anchors. Next, nail off the bottoms of the steel X bracing and all the framing anchors.

CAUTION: THE BUILDER, BUILDING CONTRACTOR, LICENSED CONTRACTOR, ERECTOR OR ERECTION CONTRACTOR IS ADVISED TO OBTAIN AND READ THE ENTIRE BOOKLET HIB-91 COMMENTARY AND RECOMMENDATION FOR HANDLING, INSTALLING AND BRACING METAL PLATE CONNECTED TRUSSES. (A COP OF HIB-91 IS INCLUDED IN YOUR SHIPPING PACKAGE.)

4.31 The Engineered floor system is designed to allow for decks and covered front porches. You may conventionally fasten your own deck onto our Island Gal. If you have ordered an Island Gal deck/porch package, you will want to refer to the Deck/Porch Installation procedures in 2.0.0 “Site Preparation”. Deck beams are best installed after the exterior walls are set. Locate the trusses the deck beams will be attached to. Install 2”x4”x12” PJ.SYP bearing blocks to both sides of the truss bottom cord with 3 ea. 16d mails. This block should be on edge so when the beam rests on it, the bottom of the beam is 3 ½” above the sill plate. Mark the end dimension of the beam on the wall and remove material to allow the beam pocket to slide over the end of the truss. Nail with 6 each 16d nails from both directions and clinch the nails that come through. Seal across the top and down the sides with a high quality sealant. Support the outer end with a post that is capable of supporting the required loads. If you are not certain of the load requirements, please call your Island Gal project consultant at (305) 567-1122.

4.3.2 The trusses cut for stairways will need to be supported by a beam or load-bearing wall (not shipped by Island Gal). Call Island Gal for the truss loading if you’re not sure. The trusses cut for a stair opening must have a filed fix on site. This is done by installing a 2”x6” upright at the cut end of the truss and nailing plywood on the sides of the trusses to support the cut end. (NOTE: There will be a special detail sent on field repairs with your shipping package showing nailing patterns and plywood lengths.)

Setting the walls is a fairly straight-forward process. But a few things should be noted. It is important to understand that the perimeter walls are all load bearing and must be positioned exactly in order to permit the roof system to fit properly. Island Gal wall panels can utilize large windows as long as the double 2’x10’ header and ample support for that header are not compromised. An Island Gal wall can have an opening as wide as 7’. If this is done the solid studding at either side of the opening cannot be removed or modified. Under absolutely no circumstances are Island Gal walls to be left out without special engineering and design consideration. Wall panels are usually marked A, B, C, D, etc., to correspond to the letters on the floor plan. Although some swapping of walls works in some situations, (e.g. swapping solid panel A for solid panel K because K was on top of the stack), it is generally not a good idea. This section is laid out in two sub-sections, lower level walls and upper level walls.

5.2.1 The inner edge of each wall panel should be directly over a line offset 3 ½” in from the exact perimeter dimensions shown on the construction generals. (In the case of 2’x6’ walls, this line should be 5 ½”) Snap lines around the perimeter at this distance. Every effort should be made to make the wall panels meet these lines.

5.2.2 As you prepare to set the wall, walk around the perimeter of the house with the floor plan and a piece of chalk and mark the letter of each panel on the floor. You should also mark what sort of opening the panel has, if any, and it’s location in the panel (e.g. 4/0x4/0 L, 2/0x2/0 R). When marking panel locations, you should also lay a four foot level on the center of the floor or on the slab parallel to the outer edge to ensure your floor or slab. If it is, then continue oh checking each section as you mark the panel locations. If it’s not level, shims need to be applied to the underside of the floor truss between the floor truss and sill plate or between the floor truss and the lower wall panel. If on a slab, note the low end as the wall panel will have to be shimmed between the sill plate of the wall panel and the slab. Shims should be of hardwood. On a slab, the shims should b pressure treated. NOTE: When marking panel placement, the right-left placement of windows and door on the Island Gal drawing are as viewed from the outside.

5.2.3 A sealant should be applied where each panel will rest before the wall panels are set. Caulk is provided with the package. This caulk can be used under wall panels that sit on an Island Gal wood floor system or slab. Caulking can also be used on the vertical stud connecting two wall panels together.

5.2.4 You are now ready to set the wall panels. It works best if you run walls to the right or clockwise. You can start with any panel. If using a crane, it’s best to start and run panels so you don’t block the operator’s view or have to lift over panels already standing. If setting by hand, you will want to start so that your last panel will be the easiest or lightest to handle such as a glass door or maximum rough opening because this panel will have to go all the way off the floor or slab and be pulled in. A 2’x4’ can be nailed across the opening to be used as a hand hold. As you set each panel, plumb, brace and tack as necessary. You may have to shim under the plate to make sure the walls are all plumb and true. Do not permanently anchor the wall panels until all panels are set and checked to ensure they are all set correctly. Be sure to support or brace every panel (NOTE: do not remove bracing until all walls are nailed off, the hardware is in place, and the roof system is complete.) It is important to make sure that each panel is plumb and level as you proceed. Toenail each panel at the top and bottom. Remember, this is temporary anchoring. You will have to permanently anchor all the panels later.

5.2.5 When all panels have been set, check each panel again to be sure it is plumb and level. Some panels may have shifted while setting later panels. When all the panels are in place and are level and plumb, nail them together using 20D CC nails. Also be sure to nail the bottom edge of the extended wall panel siding to the floor system. Also, nail through the extended siding (skirt) into the sill plate that’s bolted to the foundation. On a home on pilings, the extended siding should be nailed as low as you can into the band board. By nailing the extended siding in this manner you create a structural tie with the sheathing from the top plate to the foundation.

You may either choose to frame the center support wall now or wait until the roof system is set. Weather may play a factor.

5.3.1 It is now time to frame the center support wall which supports the upper level loft area. This wall is not provided as part of the Island Gal package. You are responsible for providing both the materials and labor necessary to frame this wall. Remember the wall height for the center support wall is 16” less than the outside wall height. After framing the center support wall on the main level, you are now ready to set your loft area floor system.

This wall is load bearing in that it supports the loft area above. The load is then carried to the pier footings in the foundation. Due to the wide variation on wall panel openings and possible header configuration, this wall is provided for and framed in the field by the owner. Please call Island Gal with any load bearing questions. When framing this interior wall it is very important that careful attention is paid to the wall height.

Go back to section 4.2.0 “Setting the Main Level Floor System”. The same installation procedures are used except the floor truss is hung onto the side of the exterior walls using a 2’x4’ SYP ledger. This ledge is installed only on the exterior wall. The other end of the truss rests on top of the interior load bearing wall. The rest of the installation procedures are the same.

Follow the same instructions on laying out the loft area floor system as described in 4.0.0 “Floor Systems”, with the exception that one end of the floor truss is supported by the center support wall while the other end is attached to the inside of the exterior perimeter wall.

5.4.1 Using a 2”x4” SYP ledger, make sure the top of the floor truss is level with the top plates of the exterior perimeter walls.

5.4.2 Install ¾” T&G floor sheathing as outlined in section 4.0.0 “Floor Systems”.

5.4.3 Be sure the floor sheathing does not extend over the top plates of the outside perimeter walls.

Setting gable wall panels from an upper level floor system is the easiest method since you have a platform to work from.

Erection of the gable end walls follows essentially the same procedures as for lower levels, with a few exceptions. These exceptions are covered later in this chapter. The repetitive steps are summarized here:

Before you set the last panel, you might want to consider bringing the trusses and roof sheathing up to sit on the floor system for easier access. This is especially helpful if you are not using a crane. Another hint that you might find helpful is to nail a 2”x4” across the last panel on the inside about halfway up the studs. This 2”x4” makes a handle for lifting the plumbing the last panel. Remove the 2”x4” after the last panel is set and braced.

At those points where a deck beam is placed, it will be necessary to notch the exterior wall sheathing on the bottom corner of the extended siding skirt. The exact location of the notch will vary since the placement of wall panels, floor beams, or floor trusses may vary. NOTE: Flashing should be placed along the top of the deck beam and turned up the side of the floor truss before setting the wall panel. A more precise measure for a tighter fit can be found measuring and cutting the notch as the panel is being lowered into position.

After the last panel has been set, once again recheck the plumb and level. Once you have achieved this, nail the walls together using 20D CC nails in the same way as the lower level. Any remaining temporary toenails should be removed or set to ensure that the top plate sits properly. Also be sure to nail the bottom edge of the extended wall panel siding to the wall panel below.

The next step is attaching the 2”x4”8’ (or 2”x6”x8’ for 2”x6” walls) top plate of each panel. The top plates should be centered at the panel connections so the top plate will act as a structural connection fastening the wall panels together.

NOTE: THE SPLICE ON THIS TOP PLATE SHOULD OVERLAP THE PANEL CONNECTIONS BY 2’ MINIMUM.

SAFETY NOTE: AT THIS POINT, EXTREME CAUTION SHOULD BE EXERCISED. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD THE DESIRE FOR SPEED OVERRULE A CONSTANT CONCERN FOR SAFETY. A MOMENTARY LAPSE OF ATTENTION OR CARELESS DISREGARD FOR THE PRIMARY RULES OF SAFETY FIRST MAY RESULT IN SOMEONE BEING INJURED. THE JOB FOREMAN MUST REMAIN FREE TO WATCH FOR THE UNEXPECTED.

6.1.1 The Island Gal roof is a bundle of various half scissor trusses that in the final assembly will be assembled in the field to create a full scissor truss. There are various types of Island Gal roof trusses. The ends of each truss overlap in the center and the other rests on an exterior wall. The type of trusses used on your Island Gal depends on how your package is designed (i.e. does your home have a dormer or porch?).

In order to accommodate shipping, the Island Gal trusses are shipped in two sections and assembled in the field. You will need to check your particular truss drawings to identify the different types of trusses. Make sure to check the overall shape as you assemble the two sides together (i.e. height, heel weight, etc.). Refer to the construction drawings and truss engineering for this information and nailing patterns.

Working on a flat area, bring the two halves together and line up the overlaps as shown in your construction drawings after checking the overall shape and fasten as shown on the truss engineering. The truss then can be flipped over and fastener applied to that side as shown on the engineering. If you handle it carefully, you may wait until trusses are set to complete the nailing.

CAUTION: SAFETY FIRST!! IF THE PROPER EQUIPMENT AND LIFTING TECHNIQUE ARE NOT USED, THIS WILL BE VERY DANGEROUS!

If you are setting trusses by hand, skip down to Section 6.1.9 “Setting Trusses by Hand”.

Have enough 2”x4” bracing on hand to properly secure the trusses off while they are being set. Stage half of the bracing on each side of the home so the worker on the floor can hand it up to the person on the wall as needed. It will take approximately two rows of bracing on both sides of the home. The bracing should split the roof area in thirds. See HB-91 summary showing the proper installation of roof truss bracing.

6.1.6 If you are experiencing high winds the day of setting trusses, then delay this phase of the project until the winds settle down. If the wind picks up shortly after setting trusses you may wish to put in extra truss bracing for extra security.

Start at one end of the home and go along the top plate and mark where the trusses will be installed. This is easily done by taking a 1 ½” block the thickness of your wall and measuring every 24” O.C. down both walls (non-gable end walls) and placing a pencil mark on both sides of your blocking. If dormer trusses are part of the package, then mark those locations with a “D”.

You are now ready to begin setting trusses. If you are using a crane, two workers should be on the walls, one on each side. Be sure to use your fall safety equipment if warranted by the height. One worker should be on the ground tying trusses to the boom, and one worker should be on the floor with the guide rope assisting the crane operator in bringing the trusses to the two workers on the perimeter walls.

You may also choose to assemble the trusses at the same time you are setting them. This could allow you to set them by hand versus using a crane. However, depending on the amount of the upper level floored area, you may not want to frame your interior load bearing wall until the roof is set as it will get in the way of the required scaffolding. First, you would build scaffolding to the height needed, with a solid platform constructed of 2”x10’ material. In the center of the scaffolding, two 2”x4”s would be spaced 1 5/8” apart and extended over approximately 3’ to create guides to help hold the trusses in place while the trusses are being assembled. From the inside of the home, place the tails of the trusses on the exterior wall panel and tie a rope to the kingpost of the trusses, pulling the kingpost side of the truss up to the scaffolding and insert into the guide created in the scaffolding. Install the other side of the truss in the same manner. Over lap the trusses and pull together using 2 bar clamps. Be sure the bar clamps are located on the kingpost where they do not interfere with the nailing of the overlapped joints. Nail the overlapped sections per construction blueprints. Then fasten the other end of the truss into the top plate of the outer perimeter wall using Simpson HGA-109 hangers (1 per truss). At this time install temporary bracing on both sides to the truss next to it. Continue until all trusses are in place.

The next item to install is the sub-fascia. The sub-fascia are 2”x6”s provided in the package by Island Gal. (NOTE: Remember this is sub-fascia, which will be covered by trim material.) As you install the sub-fascias, someone should be up in the trusses, bending them as necessary to ensure that they are straight and that the tails are level. The tops of the truss tails and the top of the sub-fascia should all be flush. A string can be stretched across the tops or ends of the truss tails to be certain this is the case.

The next step is the installation of the roof sheathing. Island Gal highly recommends hand-nailing the roof sheathing. Refer to the roof sheathing page of your blueprints. You will see the pattern of each section of your house. Begin by installing the first row at the overhang. Note that some of the end pieces will have to be field cut. Then add your 5/8” plywood clips for the next row, staggering the joints as outlined in the blueprints. Continue each row to the peak, removing the temporary bracing as you go along. When you get to the peak, remember that your want to leave 1 ½” to 3” opening at the ridge to allow air plow through the ridge vents.

The roofing paper is installed using the standard installation procedures. Start at the overhang and roll the felt paper out for the first row in the same pattern as the sheathing. Fasten down with button cap nails, not nailing down the top six inches. Roll out the second row and overlap the first row six inches. Fasten down with button caps. Continue on to the top of the ridge vent, cutting back the felt paper even with the sheathing so the air flow from the eaves is not blocked. Now you are ready to install the ridge vents.

The vinyl ridge vents are 4’ long and are installed using 2 ½” roofing nails. They are designed to allow the air flow to move through the roof system and out the ridge of the home, keeping the attic cool and prolonging the life of the roof – while at the same time keeping out the rain and snow. This is accomplished through the ridge vents. Fold the vents to form to the 9/12 roof pitch and nail one side down. Do the same with the next, covering the entire opening in the ridge. Nails are placed where specified on the product. Continue attaching each 4’ piece until you get to the end. The last piece may need to be cut.

Note: Optional roofs are available, ask for installation guides from the manufacturer.

7.0.1 Except for the insertion of the deck beams into the pocketed floor beam, Island Gal’s Deck/Porch packages follow conventional construction. The decks are thoroughly detailed in the general construction blueprints. Be sure to check with local codes, and build in compliance with them. As always, this is ultimately the responsibility of the contractor.

7.0.2 ALL DECK BEAMS MUST HAVE A SUPPORT POST AND A PROPER FOUNDATION PER YOUR LOCAL CODE. ISLAND GAL CAN PROVIDE WEIGHTS AND LOADS THAT THESE POSTS MUST BE ABLE TO HANDLE. CALL YOUR DESIGN CONSULTANT IF YOU REQUIRE HELP IN DETERMINING THESE LOADS (305-567-1122).

7.0.3 When building a covered porch, first set the vertical supports (provided by owner), onto the footers and build the deck area first. Follow the information provided in the construction blueprints. After the deck is completely built (except for the handrails) continue by placing the vertical supports (provided by Island Gal) in place. Then construct the girder between the vertical supports for the placement of the roof rafters. Continue following the general construction blueprints installing the rafters, roof sheathing and felt paper as outlined in the plans.

8.0.1 Now that the building is under roof, permanent anchoring of the entire piece is recommended.

8.0.2 If your building has been placed upon a slab foundation, use a 9/16” masonry bit and drill holes through the sill plate on the bottom of each panel about 2’ from each corner. Install the 5/8”x10” wedge anchor bolts supplied in the package. Then, moving up the sides of each panel, toenail the corners together using 20d nails spaced about 10” apart.

8.0.3 If you are using an Island Gal floor system, each wall panel should be nailed firmly to the floor with 16d nails spaced 16” apart. Try to nail into the actual framing of the floor and not just the top skin. If you look closely, you can tell by the nail heads how the framing lies. If you are using a Engineered floor system, nail bottom plate with 16d nails through the bottom plate into the truss. This will be 2’ on center.

8.0.4 If not already completed, nail off truss tie downs that were already installed with the trusses before the sheathing was installed. The 8d nails are provided with your package. There should be a nail in all of the pre-drilled holes.

8.0.5 If you have purchased the hurricane package, the wrap-over truss anchors should have been installed over each truss before the roof sheathing was applied. In this case, Island Gal also supplies hurricane strapping. Island Gal ships enough strapping to run down each end of each wall panel. This strapping should be placed against the header and the truss anchor lapped over it and nailed securely down with 8d nails. The strapping then runs down the wall panel. To go through the floor system, a small slot should be cut in the floor sheathing with a reciprocating saw just in front of the wall panel. The strapping can go through the slot and continue down to the foundation. Different methods are used to attach the hurricane strapping to the foundation. On a slab, some codes require the strapping be wrapped around the rebar before the slab is poured. On pilings, the strapping is normally just bolted securely to the pilings. Local codes will be the final word on how the strapping should be applied in each instance.

8.0.6 If your home will be in an area where hurricanes or other severe climate conditions exist, call Island Gal. We can recommend structural reinforcement to meet these conditions. Many of these areas require engineering seals for the buildings structural integrity. Island Gal can help if seals are required. Please call your design consultant for more information at (305) 567-1122.

8.0.7 Once all of the package parts are anchored in place, install the doors. The prehung doors supplied by Island Gal are easily installed. Simply cut away the portion of the sill plate which crosses the door opening and slide the door into place. Nail the door firmly into position, checking for level and plumb. If you have limited experience, look for the set of detailed instructions in each door package.

NOTE: IF YOUR PROJECT HAS BEEN SEALED BY THE ENGINEER, THERE MAY BE OTHER ITEMS NOT COVERED IN THIS HANDBOOK THAT ARE UNIQUE TO YOUR PROJECT. A PROPER REVIEW BY A QUALIFIED GENERAL CONTRACTOR IS STRONGLY RECOMMENDED. CALL YOUR DESIGN CONSULTANT WITH ANY QUESTIONS. THEY WILL DIRECT YOU TO THE APPROPRIATE PERSON FOR HELP (305) 567-1122.

9.0.1 The next step in the assembly of your package is the application of the soffit material at the overhang. If you will closely examine the blueprints, you will note the material is precut to fit tightly at the walls, and flush to the outside edge of the 2”x6” sub-fascia which is nailed to the bottom cord of the truss members. Note that each of the soffit sheets has precut vents correctly spaced for air flow into the “attic area”. Using the #6 stainless steel finish nails provided, nail along the edges at 6” spacing, firmly to the bottom of the trusses. NOTE: Island Gal provides stainless steel nails for the application of the trim package. Any other nail may cause streaks or stains on the trim materials.

9.0.2 Next, attach the soffit ledger strips (1”x4” for RB&B or 2”x4” for Cedar and Pine Lap) to the wall making sure that the angle cut meets evenly. Now nail the ledger every 12” with #8 finish nails. Next, butt the corner trim (this is the milled 1”x4”) for RB&B siding or 2”x4” for lap siding. NOTE: the 2”x4” corner trim for sap siding is shipped with the correct angle on one side only – measure the width needed at each corner and cut the other side at the angle and width needed to the bottom of the soffit ledger and nail in the same manner.

9.0.3 Now you are ready to attach the soffit batten strip (5/16”x2”x4’) that has been supplied to cover the corners of the soffit under the overhang. Simply trim this batten to the necessary lengths, flush to the ends and nail every 12” over seams where the sections join. The next finish trim to be installed is the 1”x8” fascia. This needs to be flush to the top edge of the roof sheathing. The bottom edge will be lower than the soffit and battens already installed (this will give you a drip edge at the bottom). It is important to cut each end of the fascia to fit each section of the overhang. This is the finish trim and all overhang sections may not be exactly the same dimension. At this point, use the 1”x4” provided for RB&B siding or the 2”x4” for lap siding to trim out the door. Nail in the same manner as described above. NOTE: Window trim is applied at the Island Gal plant, if the windows were factory installed.

9.0.4 If you have ordered the deluxe energy package, cardboard baffles have been provided, to prevent the insulation from blocking the roof/soffit ventilation path. Fold on crease and install by placing one end over top plate, extending toward fascia about 4” and sliding other end up toward roof sheathing, leaving approximately 1” gap between cardboard and sheathing. Staple and move to next section.

Refer to blueprint roof framing plan. Notice where the purlins are located. These are shot lengths of 2”x4”s. Slide the purlin down the rake against the sheathing until it fits tightly between the jack rafters and the intermediate trusses at the point that the jacks meet the hip trusses. Nail these purlins in the trusses.